ART POP / POP ART: Malcolm McLaren, The Sex Pistols & The Situationists

Or cash from chaos: Malcolm McLaren, The Sex Pistols and the Situationist assault on Seventies rock.

Malcolm McLaren once boasted he could create a sensation with four idiots and a dog. He didn’t need the dog.

The ginger-haired ringmaster’s maniacal grin looms over punk’s creation myth like the Cheshire Cat’s smile, an omnipresent phantom claiming to have orchestrated every shred of the chaos that ripped through the music industry’s complacent heart in 1976. The truth, like McLaren himself, is considerably more complex and perversely fascinating.

The impresario out of nowhere?

While the Pistols’ snarling frontman John Lydon (née Rotten) might dismiss his former manager as “just an old hippie with too many strange ideas,” McLaren’s strange ideas weren’t plucked from the ether. They were carefully pilfered from an obscure movement of French radical intellectuals whose theories McLaren absorbed during his fitful years at various London art colleges in the late ’60s and early ’70s.

“I left art school because it was becoming a prison,” McLaren once admitted in his peculiar drawl. “But I took what I needed from it. We wanted to create situations, not just artwork to hang on walls.”

That “we” refers to the Situationist International, a group founded in 1957 by French revolutionary Guy Debord and a small circle of artists, writers and political agitators. Their mission was nothing less than the complete transformation of everyday life through carefully engineered provocations designed to expose the empty spectacle of consumer capitalism. (Is this needed now?! SC)

Détournement and Rock ‘n’ Roll.

For the Situationists, “détournement” was the weapon of choice. The hijacking and subversive repositioning of existing cultural elements. What better place to plant this time bomb than in rock music, that most commodified of cultural forms?

While McLaren was stalking the corridors of Croydon Art School (and later, the more prestigious Goldsmith’s), absorbing these revolutionary theories between failed attempts at sculpture and film-making, he was simultaneously absorbing the nihilistic charge of American proto-punk acts like the MC5, Stooges and New York Dolls the latter he briefly managed – aka proto-Pistols, jet boys and girls.

“Malcolm was never the most talented person in the room,” recalled an early associate Bernie Rhodes, who would later manage The Clash. “But he was always the one most determined to turn his particular obsessions into some kind of theatre.” As they say, Bernie Rhodes knows.

The Situationists’ concept of “recuperation” how radical ideas are neutralised by being absorbed into mainstream consumer culture gave McLaren a framework for understanding how the rebellious energy of early rock’n’roll had been castrated by the music industry. Cliff anyone? His grand project became clear: create a band that would be a living détournement, a mockery of rock itself.

Sex, style & subversion.

The laboratory for these experiments was SEX, the King’s Road boutique McLaren ran with fashion designer Vivienne Westwood. Here, selling second-hand Teddy Boy brothel creepers and drapes amid rubber fetish wear and bondage trousers and the now infamous Seditionaries gear, McLaren cultivated his small circle of beautiful, damaged misfits including the core of what would become the Sex Pistols. The shop was a Soho destination for a coterie of Seventies musicians, aspiring rock journalists like Nick Kent (who also auditioned as ‘Pistols frontman) to North Kent punk rock groupies aka The Bromley Contingent.

The boutique’s slogan “Rubber Wear for the Office or the Bedroom” perfectly encapsulated McLaren’s Situationist approach. Take conventional items (office wear), corrupt them with forbidden elements (rubber, bondage), and send them back into society as walking provocations.

“What we were selling was a look for the disenfranchised,” Westwood would later explain. But McLaren was selling something more: an attitude that transformed the wearer into a walking scandal, a human détournement.

Steve Jones, the Pistols’ guitarist and an accomplished thief (Lonely Boy:Tales From a Sex Pistol) who nicked most of his equipment from David Bowie’s ‘Spiders’ was the first piece of McLaren’s human puzzle. Drummer Paul Cook and bassist Glen Matlock followed. They were raw, unpolished, and perfect for McLaren’s designs.

“The Pistols were terrible when they started,” recalls early punk scenester and contemporary Clash accomplice Don Letts. “But Malcolm understood that competence wasn’t the point. The point was disruption.”

A swindle, or Situationist triumph?

When McLaren spotted the green-haired, hunch-shouldered John Lydon wearing a modified Pink Floyd t-shirt (“I HATE” scrawled above the band’s name), he recognised the final element of his Situationist masterpiece. Lydon’s seething contempt for everything, including McLaren’s artsy pretensions gave the Pistols the authentic venom that transformed them from art project into genuine cultural threat. Steve Jones would have it that McLaren asked Vivienne Westwood to approach John Richie (latterly Sid Vicious) but she got ‘the wrong John’ which was lucky for us since Ritchie only looked the part, whereas Lydon was well read, a talented lyricist and an intellectual provocateur.

The Sex Pistols became the perfect Situationist intervention: a band that attacked the music industry from within, exposing its contradictions through calculated outrage. Their infamous virtually accidental appearance on Bill Grundy’s television program where Jones called the host a “dirty fucker” live on tea-time TV wasn’t necessarily an accident but a classic example of what the Situationists called “creating situations.” Jones was just likely to react if drunk and/or provoked and McLaren knew it.

McLaren’s manipulation extended to the band’s lyrical content. “God Save the Queen,” with its declaration that “there is no future in England’s dreaming,” was released during the Silver Jubilee celebrations, a perfect détournement of patriotic fervor.

“Malcolm didn’t write the lyrics,” Johnny Rotten would later insist. “But he created the circumstances where those lyrics became inevitable.” Now say that in Lydon’s disinterested tone.

When EMI signed and then rapidly dropped the band, McLaren celebrated. When A&M did the same after just six days, he was ecstatic. Each corporate rejection only proved his Situationist thesis: that the system could not assimilate true opposition without exposing its own hypocrisy.

The aftermath, a recuperation of Situationism.

The delicious irony one that would have delighted the Situationists is that punk itself was rapidly recuperated. What started as McLaren’s art-school prank became a Hot Topic fashion statement, and the manager’s Situationist theories were themselves commodified in the ironically titled film “The Great Rock’n’Roll Swindle.”

When the Pistols imploded spectacularly during their American tour, with Rotten walking off stage sneering, “Ever get the feeling you’ve been cheated?”, even that seemed part of McLaren’s grand design. The perfectly engineered self-destruction completed the Situationist circle.

Today, McLaren’s radical Situationist dream has been thoroughly absorbed into marketing textbooks. Virgin Credit Cards featuring “Never Mind the Bollocks” imagery represent the ultimate recuperation of punk’s revolutionary potential. Every CEO who quotes “cash from chaos” at boardroom meetings proves how completely McLaren’s subversive theory has been emptied of its power.

Yet something essential remains. For one brief, incandescent moment, McLaren’s Situationist experiment ripped open the fabric of popular culture. The rupture in the space 4/4 time continuum has been mended, papered over with commemorative plates and Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inductions, but the scar remains a permanent reminder that the spectacle can be momentarily shattered by the right combination of art-school theory and raw, untutored rage.

McLaren may not have changed the world, but he proved it could be jolted. As the Situationists might have said, that’s not everything, but it’s not for nothing either (in French).

Malcolm McLaren attended; St Martin’s, Chiswick Polytechnic, Croydon College of Art, Harrow Art College and Goldsmiths College, 1963-1971.

Art Pop / Pop Art: a study of the influences of art school, famous artists and movements on pop and rock music. Those institutions where failure is motivation, where the eccentric and pretentious emerge into the fascinating space where art and music meet.

ART POP / POP ART: Introduction

The introduction to my book Art Pop / Pop Art: a study of the influences of art school, famous artists and movements on pop and rock music. Those institutions where failure is motivation, where the eccentric and pretentious emerge into the fascinating space where art and music meet.

The Art School Revolution in Rock

It begins with paint splashes before guitar slashes. Hands stained with pigment before calloused by strings. Art school corridors have pumped more revolutionary blood into rock’s system than any conservatory ever could.

Consider the transformative parade of daubers-turned-rockers: Townshend with his windmill arm and operatic ambitions; Ferry, the suave pop-art provocateur; Bowie, that “chameleon, comedian, Corinthian and caricature”; Eno, the polymath dismantling sound like a child with a particle accelerator. This holy lineage stretches from The ‘Stones’ Keith Richards to Pulp’s Jarvis Cocker, with countless visionaries between.

What these visual thinkers brought wasn’t mere decoration but destruction, the impulse to tear down and rebuild. While classically trained musicians polished scales, the art school brigade posed a more subversive question: “Why make music this way at all?”

Canvas and Chord

The art school mentality transformed how music was conceived, packaged, and performed. Album artwork became an extension of the sonic statement. Warhol’s banana for the Velvet Underground announcing its art-house credentials before needle touched vinyl; his provocative zipper for the Rolling Stones. Consider too The Factory, not just Warhol’s silver-walled playground but the Manchester institution founded by art graduate Tony Wilson, who understood that bands like Joy Division and New Order needed proper framing.

Stage design reflected this visual thinking. Bowie’s transformations weren’t costume changes but conceptual renovations, each persona a living installation. Talking Heads’ David Byrne expanded concerts into performance art with his oversized suit and mechanical movements, a visual commentary no conservatory graduate would likely conceive.

The Clash’s aesthetic – sartorially and musically – owed everything to collage techniques from art school. The Pollock splattered Paul Simonon, a serial truant whose father assigned him to copy artistic masters, brought this sensibility to bass playing. Even Malcolm McLaren emerged from art school understanding bands as living artistic movements. Situationist provocateurs with amplifiers.

Conceptual Experimentation

Art school didn’t just transform music’s appearance, it fundamentally altered its sound. The dismantling of rock orthodoxy owes its framework to the experimental ethos of the art studio.

Brian Eno, having ‘Crashed his plane and walked away from it’ emerging from art school with concepts borrowed from John Cage, approached sound as malleable material. His Oblique Strategies cards instructing musicians to “Honour thy error as hidden intention” represented pure art school methodology. His ambient works treated music as environment rather than event, as gallery installation rather than narrative.

Pete Townshend’s concept albums weren’t mere song collections but gestures toward larger meaning, rock equivalents of installation art. His generation’s rebellion against rock’s three-minute constraints paralleled the art world’s expansion beyond traditional frames.

Post-punk’s angular assault on convention (prefigured by Eno’s “Third Uncle” from 1974), Wire’s stark minimalism, and Gang of Four’s razor-sharp deconstructions reflected critical theory central to 1970s art education. These weren’t just songs but sonic arguments – musical essays slicing through cultural assumptions with surgical precision.

A Lyrical Lens

The art school contingent’s most distinctive contribution may have been their observational sharpness. Ian Dury’s Pop Art tribute “Reasons To Be Cheerful, Part 3″ and Ray Davies’ character studies offer forensic examinations of English society, affectionate yet unsparing, finding universal truth in specific detail, 20th Century Hogarth .

Jarvis Cocker brought similar precision to his dissections of class dynamics and sexual politics. His lyrics function as short films, zooming in on telling details with Kubrickian focus. “If you called your dad he could stop it all, yeah!”

Even punk’s compression owed something to art school techniques, the ability to convey volumes through minimal means, musical guerrilla marketing. Steve Jones’ power chords and Joe Strummer’s manifestos demonstrated economy of expression. Bowie’s cut-up lyrical approach borrowed directly from Dadaists and William Burroughs. Creating meaning through collision rather than exposition.

A Broader Brush

This cross-pollination wasn’t merely stylistic but ideological. Pop Art’s appropriation of commercial imagery found its musical equivalent in sampling. Dadaism’s absurdist protest resonated through punk’s deliberate confrontation. Bauhaus principles influenced post-punk’s stark functionalism, literally embodied in the angular sound of that eponymous band.

Perhaps most crucially, art school’s emphasis on vision over technical prowess gave permission to prioritise expression over virtuosity. Three chords became sufficient if they were your three chords, played your way, serving your vision. This democratization of music-making owed everything to art school’s validation of the authentic voice; an ethic continued by Art Brut with their song “Formed a Band.”

A Continuing Legacy

This fertile cross-contamination continues today, though institutional pathways have multiplied. Digital landscapes enable new visual-sonic collaborations, while genres like hip-hop have developed visual literacy and sampling aesthetics paralleling art school methodologies, albeit minestrone of intellectual property. 

What remains constant is the revolutionary potential when visual thinking collides with sonic exploration. When the eye informs the ear and conceptual frameworks shatter musical conventions. From The Beatles to Blur, popular music’s most interesting corners have been mapped by those who see sound as colour, approach composition as collage, and understand music as a multi-sensory experience.

The art school radicalisation of rock wasn’t merely accidental but a necessary infusion indeed rock’s periodic salvation from its own orthodoxies. Long may paint-stained (or mouse-clicking) fingers reach for guitars, synthesisers, and samplers. As you will realise from the following chapters, our ears and entertainment depend on it.

From Art Pop / Pop Art.

Copyright Steve Coulter / 45renegade 2025